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The Durrell School of Corfu is greatly looking forward to the
visit of the Overseas Writing Workshop of the University of Iowa in
July, 2010.
This web page has some general background information for those taking
part in the Workshop, which we hope will be useful for you.
If you have any comments, suggests, or requests, click
here to send an
e-mail, and we will adjust or add to this web page, as appropriate.
If you are interested in attending this
Workshop
Corfu (Google map) is at a crossroads of the Mediterranean, and the Durrell School of Corfu offers
adventurous minds a learning environment steeped in history and cultural variety.
The school itself honours and remembers two great English writers: Lawrence Durrell (1912-1990), novelist, poet, travel writer, and translator, and his brother Gerald Durrell (1925-1995, writer, naturalist, and one of the pioneer environmentalists.
The brothers lived in Corfu with their mother and sister just before the Second World War, and their story has been immortalized in Gerald Durrell's wonderfully descriptive and very funny My Family and Other Animals (1956 - Iowa library link), which was turned into a very good BBC drama series, available on DVD.
Lawrence Durrell had a life-long relationship with Corfu, and invoked it in Prospero's Cell (1945 - Iowa library link). His writing output was considerable; perhaps most famous is his quartet of novels The Alexandria Quartet (Iowa library link), completed in 1960, set in Alexandria in Egypt before and during World War II. His poetry is also very fine - there is a selection available edited by Peter Porter (2002), and a complete edition edited by James A. Brigham (1980 - Iowa Library online resource)
Corfu (Kerkyra in modern Greek) itself is steeped in history, in part because of its geographical situation halfway down the Adriatic, making it a meeting point between Greek and Eastern Mediterranean cultures, and Roman and Western European cultures. Its name is derived from the nymph to whom Poseidon made love on the island.
The island has been continuously inhabited since at least Paleolithic times, and Neolithic settlements have been found. The Greeks colonized it around 750 BCE, though Corfu later broke away from its mother city of Corinth to become an independent entity. In The Odyssey, it is on Corfu that Odysseus meets Nausica.
Throughout the Greek period Corfu maintained a large fleet. The island was eventually conquered by Sparta, then by local pirates, and then by the emerging power of Rome.
Its geographical position meant that it was regularly fought over during the period of the Byzantine Empire, to which it belonged (the Normans attempted to control it), and was eventually ceded to Venice in 1204, before being passed back to the Greeks, then to Naples, and then back to Venice again in 1402. Venice ruled the island until 1797, when Napoleon conquered it.
The Venetian period was, of course, responsible for so much of the architecture we see in Corfu old town (though there are ruins and remains from all periods around the island). The seas around saw many naval battles in the struggle between the Christian powers and the Ottoman Turks (and sometimes between Venice and Genoa when both were ostensibly allies against Turkey).
With the fall of Napoleon, the island came under British rule, overseeing a United States of the Ionian Islands, with Corfu as the capital. The first modern Greek university was set up there in 1824.
Corfu reverted to Greece in 1864, and was invaded by France in the First World War. The famous and terrible Serbian retreat across the mountains of Serbia ended at Corfu, an event deeply etched into the collective memories of both Serbia and Corfu.
Italy bombed the island in 1923 in the so-called 'Corfu Incident' (cementing Mussolini's status as national hero in Italy). It was occupied by the Italians again in 1941, and with the fall of Italian fascism in 1943, the Nazis replaced them; only 200 of the island's 1900 Jewish inhabitants survived.
The British liberated the island in 1944, and it has remained a peaceful part of Greece ever since, although the Albanians mined the straights in the 'Corfu Channel Incident' of 1946.

The University
of Iowa Overseas Writing Workshop is available for credit and non-credit
to students in the NWP, MFA students at the University of Iowa, MFA
students at other degree-granting institutions, as well as to post-bac
students. For more information or inquiries, please
e-mail Robin Hemley at the University of Iowa.
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The Durrell School | The hotel |
Old town Corfu |
Weather
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Eating |
Field trip to Butrint
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information and requirements
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The Durrell School of Corfu was founded in 2002, and for fuller details of its history and its activities, click here. DSC, as it is usually known, will be the host and act as the centre for your visit.
The actual premises are relatively small, but wonderfully located on the second floor of an old Venetian block over looking one of the colourful and lively ancient little crooked streets in Old Town Corfu - a marvellously evocative setting.
The main room is the DSC library; it serves not only scholars, but also the local population who are members.
Its collection concentrates, along with the works of the Durrell
brothers, on modern Greek literature, history, and sociology;
biography; travel writing; British and American fiction; and
literary history and criticism.
The Library is also designed as a meeting/workshop room (with multi-media projection capabilities), where DSC's own international seminars are held. The Library will be where your workshop meetings will take place.
There are also a small lounge/sitting area, DSC's main office, and kitchen and washroom facilities adjoining the Library.
DSC is about a 10-minute walk from your hotel. |
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the entrance to DSC
Assisting for DSC on your visit will be Alexina Ashcroft, the Administrative Director of DSC; Dr. James Gifford, Director of the University Core at Fairleigh Dickinson University, Vancouver, an expert on the works of Lawrence Durrell, and a regular visitor to DSC; and Dr. Mark Morris of the University of Alberta, who both holds a PhD in, and teaches, creative writing, and who led the travel writing workshop at DSC in 2008.
You will also have the opportunity to meet
Richard Pine, who founded the School and is its Academic Director, and who has written the definitive critical study of Lawrence Durrell. |
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You will be staying in the
Cavalieri Hotel, which is in downtown Old Corfu, looking out over
the water front and one of the main social areas of the Old Town.
The building was originally a 17th century nobleman's mansion, belonging
to the family of Count Flamburiari. It has recently been renovated, and
is rightly considered one of the most comfortable hotels in Old Corfu.
It is within walking distance of the Durrell School, and virtually
anywhere in the Old Town, and makes a wonderful base for exploring.
In addition to the usual facilities, the hotel has a roof garden, a lounge
and bar area, and a new Roof Terrace with views over the water front,
and across the sea to the mountains of Albania. Lights meals, snacks,
drinks, and ice cream are available on the Terrace every evening. |
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All the bedrooms are air-conditioned, and have their own en-suite
bathrooms (hair-dryers are supplied).

Breakfasts (included in the room charge) are buffet-style; continental
breakfasts can also be served in the rooms.
The hotel has internet access. |
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Corfu Old Town, with a population of around 30,000, is magical, and a
wonderful place for writing inspiration!
It is built on a little promontory, so it is bordered on three sides by
the sea, and dominated by two forts - the 'Old' Fort, which dates back
1500 years but whose extant buildings date from the 16th century, and
the 'New' Fort, with its late 16th buildings added to by the British and
the French.
The Old Town itself, though, has an entirely Venetian feel, and sometimes
reminds me of wandering around a Venice where the canals have been
removed, and the sidewalks then pushed together - for there are lots of
wonderful winding little streets to explore, and the architecture is
largely renaissance or early modern - so it's a bit like walking back
into a Romeo and Juliet era.
The oldest part of the town (where the Durrell School is situated) is full
of little shops and stalls, catering to both locals and tourists - Corfu
silver is quite famous and quite distinctive, and not that expensive,
and is well worth looking at for presents and souvenirs.
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The hotel is on the edge of the oldest part of town,
and looks out on the broad esplanade, with its early 19th century
buildings, walks, and parks, all bordering the sea front. This area,
being a little more open than the old crooked Venetian streets behind
it, is the social hub of Corfu for the local population - you'll see
families gathering here in the evening, to eat out or have drink, or
just to promenade up and down - a great atmosphere, and those at the
Durrell School usually end up here for a pre-supper drink!
You might even catch a cricket game on the esplanade
on weekends, as this is the only place where cricket is regularly played
in Greece, reflecting the legacy of the British occupation of the
island.
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The weather in Corfu in the first two weeks of July is gorgeous, but it is also very hot.
Daytime temperatures are in the region of 86F - 95F (30C - 35C), and sunscreen is essential.
Night time temperatures are around 68F (20C), which is wonderful for dining outside in the evening (as everyone in Corfu does), but means that bedrooms are hot if there isn't air conditioning (not a problem for those who are staying in the Cavalieri).
Therefore you just need clothing for hot weather. Bring swimming things if you like swimming - the sea temperature in July is just right.
A good sunhat is also strongly advised, as are good strong walking sandals, both for walking around Corfu town and for the field trips, and a spare pair of sun glasses.
As with any Mediterranean country mosquitoes can be a
problem in the summer, and those allergic to or particularly sensitive
to mosquito bites should consider asking their doctor about appropriate
anti-allergy medication.
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You might, if you are lucky, get one of the wonderful thunderstorms that occasionally come over the town, dumping lots of water in a very short time, and making the air feel marvellous!

photo of thunderstorm over Corfu by Mark Gardner
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Corfuans (Corfiots
to the locals) love eating out, so there are many good and inexpensive restaurants. Eating out means eating out, too, as the very warm
temperatures, and the lack of any motor traffic, means that you can sit outside for lunch and supper, and most
Corfiots do. Supper is very much a social occasion, as well as a
gastronomical one.
As the sun sets around 8:50 pm (it rises at around 6:15 in July), and as European evening meal times are much later than North American equivalents, that usually means your supper lasts well into the night,
which, in the well-lit Old Town, adds a magic of its own.
Food styles are primarily Greek, especially in the middle price range, and concentrate in
particular on salads, fish, and lamb dishes, though the variety is considerable. The wine is plentiful and cheap (and, in the Greek style, slightly resinous), and you should be able to eat and drink very well for $35 a day. The Durrell School has a number of
favourite affordable restaurants in the Old Town which we would enjoy introducing you to. Our experience is that visitors are usually
surprised at how well (and how much!) they can eat on a simple budget in Corfu. The variety of most menus means that
vegetarians and those with allergies usually have a wide choice.
There are also some very fine and expensive restaurants for those who wish to experience very high quality cuisine; again, the Durrell School can provide you with information on where to find them, and what their specialties are. |
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If you prefer to buy your own food, there are plenty of stores in the Old Town to do so, with a lot of fresh local produce usually available. Prices are broadly
compatible with those in a North American supermarket.
All other supplies (such as toiletries) are similarly easily available, at prices equivalent to North American supermarkets. |
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The most exciting field trip that the Durrell school organizes is to the World Heritage Site of Butrint. This ancient town, now ruined, is in Albania, exactly opposite Corfu island.

It is set beside a small inland salt-water lake (now used for mussel fishing) connected to the sea by a small estuary. The inland waters were ideal for sheltering pre-industrial fleets, and the town site has been occupied by the ancient Greeks (from Homeric times), Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Turks, and all have left their architecture behind.

The massive walls circling the site are largely ancient Greek, with Venetian additions; the forum is Roman; the cathedral, Byzantine; the fort, Turkish; the
amphitheatre, both Greek and Roman; and the surroundings pure rural Albania.

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Many Roman senators had their summer villas in the area (Cicero records visiting some of them), and to
visit Butrint is to physically walk through 3,000 years of
Mediterranean history - an extraordinary experience enhanced by the sheer physical beauty of the area.

Not only will you visit this remarkable site, but getting there is almost as evocative. The ferry crosses Homer's 'wine dark sea', with the Greek and Albanian mountains on the far shore, and takes you to a small Albanian port, a 20 minute or so taxi ride from the World Heritage Site.

Even such a small glimpse of Albania is fascinating, for this is a country in transition: long a
fierce communist dictatorship, almost completely cut off from the rest of Europe, it is now a country modernizing itself to be able to eventually join the European Union.

Much of it remains backward, but all around you will see signs of new life quite literally going up, often in new houses partly funded by family members working abroad.
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money: The currency is the Euro
(exchange rate Sept. 2009: One US$ = 0.68 Euros, or $1.47 to 1 Euro).
You can use your debit card at any ATM
displaying an international symbol (they almost all do) to take out
cash, which is so useful - gone are the days of needing to travel with
travelers' cheques bought in advance, though you might consider a small
amount in travelers' cheques for emergencies.
However, European debit machines require a 4-figure PIN number -
check with your bank about this if you have a 6-figure number.
voltage and electronics: Corfu operates on a 220 volt system -
consider buying a voltage converter/adaptor if you are taking electronic
equipment with you (most modern laptops and cell phone chargers
automatically adjust to the voltage, meaning you only need the plug
adaptor, not the voltage converter, but check your manual(s) first!).
You will not need to bring hairdryers (supplied in the hotel). It is not
advised that you bring hair-curlers, etc, unless they are dual-voltage.
cell phones: cell phone charges for using US cell
phones abroad can be horrendously expensive, whereas indigenous cell
phone charges all over Europe are generally cheaper than North American
charges.
If you are considering using your cell phone quite a lot in Corfu
(especially if you are faculty), consider simply buying a local
pay-as-you-go SIM card when you are there - a 10Euro SIM card will
usually cover your stay.
However, you will need an unlocked phone to do this (in other words, a
phone that will accept a different network's card. You can almost
certainly get your phone unlocked for a small charge).
internet access: internet access is available at
the Cavalieri Hotel; there are also internet cafes in the Old Town.
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entry requirements: US and
Canadian citizens need only a valid passport to travel to Greece.
A visa is not currently required (as these things can change, check
nearer the date of travel).
health precautions: none needed,
though some suggest you might consider a hepatitis vaccination. Ask your
physician about this.
taxis and buses: You will need a taxi from the airport
to the hotel, but otherwise Corfu Old Town is vehicle-free (apart from
scooters and the occasional delivery vehicle), so you can actually walk
everywhere (and nothing is that far away from the hotel).
If you want to explore Corfu island, or go to a specific destination
outside the Old Town, taxis are pretty cheap in Corfu - if there are
three or more of you sharing a taxi, then it's cheaper than taking a
bus.
the airport: The airport is on the edge of Corfu Old Town, and is about a 10-minute taxi ride to the hotel. It receives direct charter flights from the UK and elsewhere, but the most common route from North America is via Athens - it's about an hour's flight from Athens.
language: Greek is the language of Corfu, though the island has long had ties and connections with the UK, and some of the island's resorts are favourite UK destinations, so basic English is spoken in most places (though it can be pretty basic), and if required a good English speaker can almost invariably be found.
In other words, you should have no problems getting around or finding what you want; however, even a smattering of Greek (if just to greet or to say thank-you), is greatly appreciated by the islanders!
health insurance: Travel (health) insurance is essential, and should be arranged before your trip. A visit to hospital can be very expensive for those not in the European Union.
Health facilities in Corfu are very good - most doctors speak English, and many have trained in the UK. |
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e-mail for more information |